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Final Sowings

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

Labor Day Weekend has come and gone, and there’s now no denying it: summer is on its way out. September ushers in beautiful days, cool nights, and the widest array of garden-fresh vegetables available at any time of the whole year. From peppers to pumpkins, cukes to carrots, tomatoes to turnips to tatsoi: the September bounty–and its sweet, sweet weather–are a gardener’s reward for a season of hard work.

Doe Hill Peppers: Super sweet and super cute, these will be in next year's catalog.

Doe Hill Peppers: Super sweet and super cute--and early, and high-yielding--these will be in next year's catalog.

  • ENJOY THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOR. While some crops may have already petered out, and others may have suffered from pests or diseases, your garden is almost certainly full of good eating right now. The most important garden task of September is to enjoy this feeling of bounty, to be grateful, to savor your fresh and healthy foods.
  • CONSIDER WINTER. Alas, September does not last forever, and within the next two months, much of the garden will be felled by frost and cold. Now is the time to put into place your winter plans: Where might the surplus root crops be stored? What can be transplanted into a cold frame to give fresh greens all winter? What should be canned, pickled, dehydrated, or frozen? A little attention now will yield delightful eating when the world is snowy and cold.
  • FINAL SOWINGS. You can still plant a number of seeds for harvest in late fall and early winter. Try spinach, arugula, tatsoi, bok choy, mustard greens, lettuce, and radishes. Got a cold frame or hoop house? Plant these crops mid- to late-September for fresh young greens all winter long.
  • LEARN YOUR LESSONS. By September, your season’s worth of garden lessons has become obvious. Note what crops have done well, and do your best to figure out what went wrong with those that struggled (hint: many of this season’s garden maladies had to do with the prolonged heat and drought, so inadequate irrigation may be to blame). Write it all down, and be prepared for next year. Becoming a proficient gardener takes several seasons of trial and error (and error, and error…). The failures can be a little rough, but when you sink your teeth into a fresh tomato, super sweet pepper, crunchy cuke, or heirloom melon, you know it’s all worth it.

Oh Say Can You Seed? Seedy vocabulary for home gardening.

Tuesday, March 1st, 2011

Gardeners have their own lingo. Some like to use tongue twisting Latin names, others can rattle off useful products like winnow baskets and squid hoes that are little known outside food growers and seed savers. But some of the most important terms are those used by sowing circles, the words that appear in catalogs and on seed packs that tell you about your seeds and how to sow them.  Here’s a few that we use frequently and think could stand for a little definition.

Heirloom: This term was coined in the 1970s and popularized in the 90s as a way of showing that some open-pollinated seeds are cherished and passed down from generation to generation the way a family carpet or painting might be. An heirloom seed or variety (not just tomatoes!) is one that has been grown within a family or community or region for a period of many generations. They “grow true,” meaning that gardeners can continue to save seed from the variety and grow plants with consistent characteristics year after year. The debate over heirlooms is how old is old enough to qualify as an heirloom. We consider a variety that has been grown for 50-100 years an heirloom. Some of these are family heirlooms–such as Hank’s X-tra Special Baking Bean and Ulster Germaid Tomato–which were donated to us by individuals. Others are commercial heirlooms, seeds that have been commercially available for at least 50 years, though we don’t know the seed’s story before it was offered in a seed catalog. Some, like Jenny Lind Melons, are regional heirlooms, grown by many gardeners throughout a region for many years.

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Either way, heirlooms were developed over generations for characteristics that are important to gardeners and eaters such as flavor, beauty, cultural recipes, and regional adaptations. That’s why we love them!

Hybrid: We don’t sell any hybrid seeds. That’s because we want you to be able to save seeds from year to year, and you can’t do that with a hybrid. A hybrid variety is the offspring of a cross between two genetically different parent plants of the same species resulting in a first generation plant (F1) with some characteristics of both parents. Hybrids are usually developed for mono-crop and industrial  farming purposes like shipability, mechanical harvesting, high yield (requiring high chemical inputs) and shelf life. Not all seed catalogs tell you which varieties are hybrids. One clue is if it says F1, you know it’s a hybrid. You don’t have to worry about accidentally buying hybrids with us! We do, however, have some contemporary heirlooms whose best qualities have been untangled from their hybrid fore-bearers. Bridge to Paris peppers are one example; selected over successive seasons out of hybrid La Paris, this variety’s deliciousness has only improved.

GMO: Genetically engineered seeds have acquired modified genes from other organisms by laboratory “gene transfer” methods. We don’t sell any genetically engineered seeds. In fact, we won’t even buy seeds (even heirlooms) from any company owned or related to bio-tech corporations. GMOs are primarily developed for industrial chemical agriculture purposes such as resistance to chemical herbicides and to deliver pharmaceuticals to animals.

Ready to sow your heirloom seeds? Here are three terms you should know.

Doug tending hoophouse tomato seedlings in soil block trays.

Doug tending hoophouse tomato seedlings in soil block trays.

1.    Start under protection. In the northeast, when we say “start under protection” (or “start early”) we are referring to starting seeds in small pots or soil blocks either indoors, in a greenhouse, or in a cold frame. Tomatoes, onions, peppers, eggplants and some herbs, all need to be started early and transplanted outside after last frost. Many other crops happily adapt to this treatment, too–and produce earlier yields because of it. Check out our Seed-Starting 101 series to learn more.
2.    Direct sow. The bulk of the varieties in our catalog can be direct sown. This means you can plant them directly in the ground after last frost.  Direct sown seeds are no-fuss, easy seeds to grow. If you don’t want to start seeds early indoors, stick to seeds that can be direct sown.
3.    Succession sow. Some plants are fast growers and will bolt (flower and go to seed) quickly. Cilantro is a good example of this. To make sure we have cilantro for a longer season, we plant in succession. Try planting new seeds every week or two when we recommend succession sowing.

Here are some other helpful definitions:
Cotyledon: an embryonic leaf that looks much different from the eventual plant leaves, the cotyledons are the first leaves of any seedling. For most vegetables–except for corn–there are two symmetrical cotyledons. The first “true leaves” appear after the cotyledon and are specialized for photosynthesis.
Cross-Pollination: Transfer of pollen from anther to stigma on two different plants.
Cultivar: A named cultivated variety of plant.
Genetic Diversity: The complete range of genetic differences expressed by plants of the same variety.
Genetic Erosion: The gradual, persistent loss of genetic resources.
Open-pollinated: Non-hybrid plant reproduced from two parents of the same variety that displays the same characteristics as the parent plants.
Selection: The process by which specific characteristics of a plant are retained over time.
Standard Variety: A non-hybrid plant selected generation after generation until completely stabilized.
True-to-type: A plant that, when grown year after year, maintains the same characteristics expected of the variety.
Variety: Closely related plants with near exact characteristics.

10 Tips for Container Gardening and Our Top Container Variety Recommendations

Sunday, March 20th, 2011

Garden anywhere! For those of you who don’t have gardens, or your deer population is hungry enough to be unafraid of your back yard, container gardening is a great way to grow. Many of the varieties we offer can be grown in pots.

10 Tips for Container Gardening:

1.    The bigger the plant, the bigger the pot should be.
2.    The longer the plant takes to mature, the bigger the pot.
3.    Fruiting plants (tomatoes, peppers etc) need more soil and more nutrients than greens (lettuce, Tatsoi etc)
4.    Don’t over crowd. You can plant varieties a bit closer than normal in a pot, but crowding leads to weak spindly plants. One tomato plant in a big pot will actually produce more tomatoes than 4 tomato plants in the same size pot.
5.    Pots are thirsty. They dry out quickly. Keep pots evenly moist, trying not to let them dry out between watering or get too saturated.
6.    Make sure there are drainage holes. (Some folks say gravel or sand at the bottom helps as well but see comment below about possible problems with this.)
7.    Container plants still need lots of sun. If you have part shade stick to herbs and greens.
8.    Rooftops can be windy. If you’re growing containers on the roof, consider setting up some kind of windbreak, like lattice, that won’t cast shade.
9.     Use a light potting mix but make sure you have nutrient rich compost mixed in.
10.   Succession sow. Since you are growing in a small space, plant some seeds, let them grow, eat your harvest, and plant some more. Just make sure to add compost and nutrients between sowings.

11. BONUS TIP: Check out Kerry Michaels. She’s an expert northeast container gardener up in Maine. Her about.com page is full of photos, ideas, instruction, and inspiration for growing in containers.

Here are our recommendations.

But don’t limit yourself! Gardening is about experimenting. We’ve heard of people growing all sorts of unconventional varieties successfully in containers.

ART PACK Varieties for Small Spaces
Tiny Tim
Sweet Salad Pepper
Arugula
Basil Bouquet
Ultimate Salad Bowl
New Yorker Tomato
Calendula
Variegated Nasturtium
Tatsoi
Rainbow Chard
Bloomsdale Spinach
Piracicaba Brocolli

GARDEN and LIBRARY PACKS for Small Spaces
Mesclun Mix
Matchbox Pepper
Tom Thumb Lettuce
Trailing Nasturtium
Sugar Ann Pea
Baby Bok Choi
Mustard (tendergreen, red giant)
Braising Mix

Edible HERBS for Containers
Tarragon
Chives
Parsley
Marjoram
Chervil
Cilantro
Thyme
Summer Savory
Salad Burnett
Oregano
Basil

FLOWERS for Pots
Cornflower
Calendula
Nasturtium (Variegated or Trailing)
Morning Glory
Johnny Jump Up
Cosmos
Pumilla Zinnia

Potting Up Tomato Seedlings a.k.a. Buying Time in the Garden (Our First Video!)

Thursday, May 19th, 2011

Are your seedlings getting leggy, turning pale, or other wise begging to be planted?

The cool wet weather has delayed our planting schedule by about three weeks. We’ve snuck in some plantings by carefully hand preparing beds, but the bulk of the back field is too soaked to work.

It’s best to avoid working the soil when it’s this muddy. Wet soil compacts more easily, transplants don’t like to be waterlogged, and seeds can drown. These challenges are not reason enough to throw up our hands in despair.

If you are facing similar obstacles, or even if you haven’t been able to transplant your seedlings becasue you’ve been too busy, there are ways to buy time in your garden. We’ve made this short How-To Pot Up Tomato Seedlings video so you can see a bit of the farm, our hoophouse, and see first hand how we take care of our little seedlings until they can sink their roots into cozy beds.

Summary:

1. Place potting soil in bottom of larger container.

2. Remove tomato seedling from tray.

3. Remove lower leaves and gently loosen roots.

4. Place in container.

5. Fill in with soil. Soil should cover first 1-2 inches of tomato stem (you can also bury tomatillos in this same way, but other seedlings should be potted up at regular depth without being sunk into soil).

6. Water in.

7. Don’t worry if your seedling looks droopy at first. It will perk up!

8. Keep seedling outdoors (after hardening off) or in green house.

9. You’ve just bought yourself 1-2 weeks before you need to transplant.

10. Transplant into garden deep enough to cover another inch or so of green stem.

Tip Top Tomato Tips

Tuesday, June 21st, 2011

Do you let your tomatoes go wild or do you train them?

We’ve experimented, sometimes out of necessity, with leaving our tomatoes unpruned and unstaked. While they will produce tomatoes, they won’t produce nearly as many and will be much harder to take care of–and, almost certainly, the plants will become badly diseased. (While old-timers may have grown tomato vines along the ground in much the same way as squash, contemporary disease pressures make this a bad idea.)

This year we are staying on top of tomato care. Staking keeps disease at bay and makes harvesting tomatoes (and hornworms) easier. Pruning helps plants to focus their energy into producing big fruit.

But what to cut and what to leave? And should you cage, string, or weave? Tips after the jump. (more…)

For fall harvests, keep on sowing!

Wednesday, July 6th, 2011

(Want answers fast? Scroll down to see our handy fall planting chart.)

Mibuna

Mibuna

Many of us have experienced a zen moment in the garden. We’re weeding, or transplanting, or raking, and we are totally in the moment, not thinking about anything but the task at hand. I imagine many of you have also had definitively un-zen moments in the garden as well: feeling overwhelmed by everything there is to do, worrying about pests, fretting over weather that is too wet or too dry or any other issue totally out of your control. While I wish I could always “be here now” in the garden, growing is an endeavor that requires living in the past, present, and future. Thinking about last year’s lessons and making the necessary changes, prioritizing what needs to be done in the moment, and preparing for the next harvest.

This time of year I’m enjoying summer, but living with one foot in fall. To get the most out of your garden, and the longest season of fresh food, you must do more than just a spring planting. For fall (and winter!) harvests, seed sowing starts in July.

Here’s when gardeners in the Hudson Valley should sow seeds for harvests straight through the winter solstice. (Gardeners in the greater NYC metro area can have success starting seeds 1-2 weeks after the dates indicated here.) Have a cold frame, plastic tunnel, or greenhouse? Experiment with starting seeds up to 2-3 weeks later than indicated for extended harvests into winter under protection.

Week beginning Sowing possibilities
June 14th Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collards, Cucumbers, Fast-Growing Cabbages (such as Early Jersey Wakefield or Red Express), Fennel, Kale, Lettuce, Scallions, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi, Winter Squash
June 21st Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collards, Cucumbers, Fast-Growing Cabbages (such as Early Jersey Wakefield or Red Express), Fennel, Kale, Lettuce, Scallions, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi, Winter Squash
June 28th Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collards, Cucumbers, Fast-Growing Cabbages (such as Early Jersey Wakefield or Red Express), Fennel, Kale, Lettuce, Scallions, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi, Winter Squash
July 7th Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Collards, Cucumbers, Fast-Growing Cabbages (such as Early Jersey Wakefield or Red Express), Fennel, Kale, Lettuce, Peas, Rutabaga, Scallions, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi
July 14th Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Cucumbers, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Peas, Rutabaga, Scallions, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi
July 21st Arugula, Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chinese Cabbage, Collards, Cucumbers, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mibuna/Mizuna, Rutabaga, Scallions, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi
July 28th Arugula, Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chinese Cabbage, Lettuce, Mibuna/Mizuna, Kale, Kohlrabi, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi
August 7th Arugula, Beets, Bok Choy, Carrots, Chinese Cabbage, Lettuce, Mibuna/Mizuna, Mustard Greens, Swiss Chard, Tatsoi, Tendergreen, Turnips
August 14th Arugula, Bok Choy, Lettuce, Mibuna/Mizuna, Mustard Greens, Swiss Chard, Spinach, Tatsoi, Tendergreen, Turnips
August 21st Arugula, Bok Choy, Lettuce, Mibuna/Mizuna, Mustard Greens, Swiss Chard, Spinach, Tatsoi, Tendergreen, Turnips
August 28th Arugula, Bok Choy, Lettuce, Mache, Mibuna/Mizuna, Mustard Greens, Spinach, Tatsoi, Tendergreen, Turnips
September 7th Arugula, Lettuce, Mache, Mibuna/Mizuna, Mustard Greens, Radishes, Spinach, Tendergreen
September 14th Arugula, Lettuce, Mache, Radishes, Spinach, Tendergreen
September 21st until the ground freezest Continue planting seeds of cold-hardy varieties such as Lettuce, Mache, and Spinach to give plants a head-start on spring. They will overwinter and reward your foresight with delicious early spring salads. Plant cold-hardy brassicas such as Bok Choy or Tendergreen for harvest as baby greens (don’t try too hard to overwinter these late plantings—they will bolt before growing much at all in the spring).

Weeds: Appreciation and Eradication

Wednesday, July 20th, 2011

Weeds don’t need us. Wet or dry, chewed up by hungry bugs, finding nothing but poor soil, they manage to thrive through conditions that would lay waste to a garden variety. Our cultivated plants are picky. They complain when it’s too hot, too dry, too wet, or too cool. They flop over and we build them a trellis; they get gangly and we carefully prune them; they get bitten and we rush to pick off the bugs.

Is it time we started treating our garden plants like weeds?

Like everything else about gardening, there is no absolute answer. Of course we can’t entirely abandon our gardens to the elements all together. We all love growing plants that are originally from non-Northeastern climates and need our help to thrive. But, part of our philosophy as seed savers is benign neglect.

Which are weeds and which are for seeds?

Which are weeds and which are for seeds?

If we want to create regionally adapted seeds that are hearty in our climate, resistant to our bugs and diseases, tolerant of our temperature swings and unpredictable precipitation, and thrive in our short growing season, we need to let them suffer a bit. The plants that get a disease but then survive and fruit are more likely to produce a second generation with disease resistance than a coddled, over-protected, spoiled brat of a plant that acts perfect on the outside, but has little strength of character on the inside.

Next time you’re weeding, take a moment to appreciate the wiley ways of weeds and remember, many of our favorite vegetable, herb, and flower varieties were once weeds themselves. When you’re done appreciating your weeds (give or take five seconds!) and ready to rip them out, we have some tips for easy weeding.

Weeding Tips:

1.      On hot, dry days, we like to weed with tools during the late morning and early afternoon. Go through with a collinear or wheel hoe, slice through the weeds’ roots,  and let them bake in the sun before collecting them to compost. The wilting helps start breaking them down and makes them better compost fodder. (Plus, if you never get around to collecting them, they’ll just continue to wither and nearly disappear.)

2.      During wet weather, we  weed by hand in the morning when the soil is moist. It’s easier to pull weeds up by the roots when the soil is still damp. Unfortunately, hoes don’t cut it (so to speak) during wet periods, as the sliced off roots of the ultra resilient weeds tend to sink back into the soil and re-grow. Slicing through wet soil also takes more physical energy than slicing through dry soil, so it rarely makes sense.

3.      Don’t compost weeds that are going to seed. Flowering is ok. But chances are your compost isn’t hot enough to kill weed seeds and you’ll just be spreading more weed seeds next season.

4.      When pulling a weed that is near the base of a shallowly rooted plant or newer seedling, place pressure with one hand on the soil around the plant you want to keep and give a firm steady tug on the weed. This helps prevent you from pulling up both the weed and the keeper. If their roots are too entwined, use sharp clipper to cut the weed off just below the surface of the soil.

5.      For larger areas where you just want to kill grass and weeds, sheet mulching is the way to go. Cut down the weeds then place cardboard or newspaper, and water it. Then add compost, then straw. Let it sit all season and over winter. Next spring you’ll have a clear area so you can expand your garden without breaking your back.

6.      The earlier the better! Weed well before you plant a bed and go through your open areas with a small hoe on a regular basis–especially when the plants are young. That way you can weed quickly, without bending over, and don’t have to worry about the weeds winning.

Tomato Smash-Up 2011: How to Save Tomato Seeds

Friday, August 5th, 2011

Since we are a seed library farm, not a large commercial seed producer, we do things much the same way as home gardeners, just in larger batches. We process most of our tomato seeds in the barn (picture 5 gallon buckets of goopy seeds instead of quart jars) and bring the tasty parts up to our kitchen. That’s because tomatoes are one of the veggies where seed saving and good eating go hand in hand. While the seeds are fermenting and smelling up the barn, we’re making tomato basil cucumber salads for lunch–or, more often, canning or freezing them for later eating. Last year we canned about 80 quarts of tomatoes–stewed, sauce, and salsa. We’re just finishing the last of them while the next season’s fresh tomatoes start coming in.

An Ox Heart Tomato the size of an ox heart!

An Ox Heart Tomato the size of an ox heart!

Here are our instructions for how to save tomato seeds from your garden. Remember, no matter how you choose to save them, save seeds from your healthiest looking plants. If you are a member of the Seed Library, save some to return to us too!

Saving Seeds from Heirloom Tomatoes
Saving seeds from heirloom tomatoes is a great first step in producing your own garden seeds. You usually need only sacrifice a few fruits to save enough seeds for next year’s plants—and even these few fruits will yield a portion of tomato for eating or cooking.

PLAN
To save seeds that will grow true to type, be sure to select from heirloom or open-pollinated varieties. Seed saved from hybrid tomatoes will not grow true but will produce offspring with a wide range of dissimilar characteristics.

OBSERVE
Start by eyeing a few of your best-looking fruits as they mature on the vine. It’s best to save seeds from your top performers, so you may even want to sneak a little little bite first to make sure you’re saving seeds from your best-tasting tomatoes.

PREPARE
Once you’ve selected the fruit from which you’ll save seed, gather together a glass jar, a strainer, an unwaxed paper plate, and an air-tight container.

PROCESS
1.    Let your tomatoes ripen on the vine or even start to go a little soft.
2.    Pick the tomatoes from different plants—but don’t eat them yet!
3.    Slice the tomatoes in quarters and squeeze the pulp and seeds into the jar.  Make sure to keep varieties separate and labeled.
4.    Set aside the fleshy portions of the tomatoes for cooking—you don’t need them for seed-saving.
5.    Add to the jar the same amount of water as pulp.
6.    Let the pulp/water mixture sit for three to five days or until a smelly layer of white mold has formed on the surface. Don’t eat this stuff.
7.    Skim off the mold and rinse seeds in strainer until clean.
8.    Place seeds on paper plate, label, and let air dry. If the weather is humid and stagnant, provide a fan to help with air circulation. For small batches I usually let the seeds dry right in the strainer.
9.    Store dry seeds in a labeled, air-tight container in a cool, dark place.
10.    Plant your seeds next season!
A NOTE ON CROSS POLLINATION
There are different opinions as to how often different varieties of tomatoes cross with each other. In general, regular leaf tomatoes cross less and potato leaf and cherry varieties cross more. The recommended isolation distance between varieties is 25 to 50 feet. However, many home gardeners successfully collect seed in tight spaces. Give it a try!

Eight Tracks to Freedom: Re-purposed 8-track Seed Organizing Case

Friday, August 5th, 2011

Guest Blog Post from Jacinta Bunnell and Neko Case

photo-1Jacinta: Fixed in my mind are the memories of driving around town with my mother listening to The Sound of Music, Paint Your Wagon, and Blood on the Tracks on the 8-track player in our car.  My mom was and still is a great fan of musicals and Bob Dylan. We had a humble collection of well-loved 8-tracks, more like relatives than collections of songs because of the way they were woven into the fundamental nature of family life. As much as I adore the ease and comfort of my life now, I find myself hankering for certain aspects of an extraordinarily vivid and simple past, a time when I did not have thousands of songs in a digital library I can carry anywhere, when the only periodical to choose was Mad Magazine, when I would stretch the coiled phone cord into the other room to have a private conversation with a girlfriend. I could be ever so satisfied with a life surrounded by heirlooms. When I was young, my mother feared I would be crushed eventually by my collection of all things baby and all things old. I wanted to be surrounded by old details like grandmas, Roman numerals and oak iceboxes. Baby everything (game pieces, furry animals and sequins) have always been irresistible to me. Heirloom seeds are the perfect combination of baby and old: a single seed contains ancient shared intelligence that each of us can tap into and yet is not even in the infancy of its growth: all at the same time!  When planning a visit to see my friend Neko Case at her farm in rural Vermont, I wanted to bring her a personalized gift.  I knew she had a huge garden filled with heirloom vegetables that was her solace after long exhausting weeks of travel as a touring musician. So I re-purposed a vintage 8-track cassette case for Neko and filled it with many of my favorite Hudson Valley Seed Library seed packets. On the inside of the box, I carefully wrote the word “heirloom” in a script inspired by old-fashioned handwriting. I even prefer old lettering to new. Upon receiving the gift, she added to its riches with her existing collection of heirloom seed packets without delay. Later that weekend, she proudly showed me around her garden as we harvested that evening’s dinner. Of the treasured growth, there was none she was more proud of than the beans she had grown from saving last year’s seeds.

Neko: Receiving the 8-track seed case was like getting the most custom-made personal gift ever. Jacinta knows how I feel about heirloom seeds so it was the most hopeful and super joyful gift anyone could get. The 8-track player was a huge part of my childhood and I have always bought those 8-track carriers at thrift stores. I would feel bad throwing out the organizing slots because I am not a thrower-away of stuff. But seed packets fit perfectly! I am not surprised that Jacinta came up with this idea because she is a super clever person. It is one of those times when you feel like a total a-hole for not coming up with it yourself!  I come from a farming family. All I am thinking about right now is this particular time we live in and what rebellion means within that context. The most subversive thing you can do in the U.S. is to grow your own food. It is traditional, therapeutic and grounding. Feeding people is the greatest feeling. Seeds are about community, even if you are just growing for yourself. Growing plants that are native to your region gives you a real respect for your food. It is our most basic need next to air and water.  When I received the 8-track seed case I thought about how Fred Flintstone always bought Wilma a bowling ball for her birthday because it was what he wanted, not what she wanted…and how Jacinta’s gift was exactly the opposite of that. It made me realize how much someone really cares about me and knows me. It is a f*ing genius idea!

Jacinta: I just completed my design for another seed packet for Hudson Valley Seed Library. I feel honored to be part of the mind-blowing cadre of artists that Ken and Doug have chosen to be part of the 2011 line-up.  But you will have to excuse me now while I pop another 8-track into the player.

Jacinta Bunnell is an artist and educator who lives in the Hudson Valley. She previously designed the Calico Popcorn seed packet for HVSL.

Neko Case is a musician and gardener who lives in rural Vermont.

Melon Harvesting 101

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011

Ah–melon season. For us northerners, there is but a brief window of about six or eight weeks when fresh melons can come from the garden. The vines are sprawling, and most gardeners find room to grow only a few each season. If you are a melon lover, the anticipation can be too much to bear. But, dear gardener, bear it! There are few garden moments so disappointing as cutting into your first (or second) hard-earned melon that you’ve been (not so) patiently waiting for only to discover that it’s not ripe.

Blacktail Mountain Watermelon

Blacktail Mountain Watermelon

As in life, so in the melon patch: timing is everything. Here are some clues to picking melons at their prime.

For muskmelons and cantaloupes, the melon is ripe when the melon has turned a deeper, more orange tone and the fruit slips easily off the vine with a gentle tug. (Certain melons, such as Charentais, are actually ripe before the “slip” stage; however, all muskmelon varieties that we currently sell are best harvested then.) In general, it’s better to harvest the melon at the onset of the slip stage rather than waiting for the melon to start detaching from the vine itself. The longer you wait once the melon is ripe, the greater the risk of the melon developing a rotten spot where it rests on the ground–or simply turning too soft and overripe for most people’s palates. (Of course, the melon is at its sweetest then, but in general most people prefer a compromise between sweetness and texture.) Most garden varieties have a shorter shelf life–and much more delectable texture–than commercial crops, so be sure to eat within a few days of harvest.

For watermelons, determining ripeness is much more difficult. There are four clues to look for:

  1. A bright yellow spot where the melon rests on the ground. In yellow-skinned varieties, this spot will be whitish.
  2. Detectable ribbing along the surface of the melon. When immature, the watermelon has smooth skin lacking a topography. As it ripens, the skin becomes an undulating landscape which can be detected by rubbing your fingers around the melon. The more distinct the ribbing, the riper the fruit.
  3. A drum-like resonance when you knock the melon with your knuckles. You should be able to detect some reverberation–not just a dull thud.
  4. The browning and wilting up of the tendril on the melon vine that is adjacent to the little stem leading to the ripening fruit. As the melon grows, this tendril looks green and curly; when the melon approaches peak ripeness, the tendril grows brown and shrivels from the tip down to the base. If the tendril is not fully withered, the melon is probably not fully ripe.

Once you’ve identified a fruit that meets all these criteria, wait a few more days (unless you are growing a variety with a thin rind, in which case prompt harvest is necessary to prevent splitting). In general, the longer you’re able to abstain from harvesting, the riper your watermelon will become. While regular melons will continue to ripen a little bit once harvested, watermelons stop dead in their tracks once you pull them off the vine. So, in nearly all circumstances, the longer you wait before harvesting, the better. When you do decide to harvest, cut the watermelon from the vine (it will not slip).

You’ll know as soon as you try to slice into a watermelon whether or not it’s ripe: a ripe watermelon will seem to pop open–as if to relieve inner pressure–as soon as the knife slits the skin.